Villa on a Hilltop

We’re at the farmer’s market in the medieval town of Asti. Tim and Rina, the owners of Villa Sampaguita, said we should try the local Roero peaches; “Buy them from the brothers who have a stand at the end of the square.” To one of the brothers I say,“Vorrei del Roero pesci, per favore.” He tilts his head and furrows his brow. Then his eyes open wide and he points to the sky. “Pesche!” he says.
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Pesci means fish.

In our little VW, we drive out of Asti to SR10. In just a few miles, we turn right onto a two lane – no, one and a half lane – road. Our wheels climb over dips and bumps, around curves and elbows, to the last back-bend into the driveway of Villa Sampaguita. The Villa sits at the top of a hill regarding the landscape below.

We amble down the driveway and have our usual welcome from the gaggle of geese. Then, out of the car, a purring hello from the cat, Mr. Bean. White sheets, hung to dry, softly flap in the breeze. Ducks and chickens scratch and waddle. Just beyond the fence is a small vineyard where the grapes are nearly ripe. On Sunday we’ll help to harvest them for the 2011 Villa Sampaguita wines.

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In our little apartment, we slice tomatoes, mozzarella, melon, and, of course, Roero peaches. We pour a glass of wine and decide to sit outside. The air is warm and lightly scented by the jasmine in a barrel nearby.

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When we’re ready to slide into our sheets, the sky is black, pierced only by a golden half moon and a million sparkling stars. In this place, tension is outmatched.

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