Category: Travel

  • Last day in Bologna

    Last day in Bologna

    We rent a car tomorrow and drive to Asti. We’ve neglected the sights here, distracted by food. On our last day, we plan to amend this. Our alarm sounds at 6am. After quick showers and coffee, we emerge on the street. The traffic is quiet, pedestrians few. We walk along the Via Saragozza to the edge…

  • Whip, Knead, Roll, Cut, Fill, Shape, Dry

    Whip, Knead, Roll, Cut, Fill, Shape, Dry

    Except for the mandatory bright yellow cap, the class was perfect. Instructors at La Vecchia Scuola teach novices and professional students alike how to make traditional Bolognese pasta. The recipe is simple: for every 100 grams of  ’00’ flour (or cake flour in the US), one egg, then whip, knead, roll, cut, fill, shape, and…

  • And if you ask me why I’ll say…

    And if you ask me why I’ll say…

    We’re in B-O-L-O-G-N-A. (sorry about that, but I can’t get that jingle out of my head) You may as well know that we came here to eat. Some say that Bologna is the culinary capital of Italy. The food here is decadent: egg pasta, cured meat, beef, pork, veal, cheese, butter. Allora…when in Bologna…

  • Then we sat down for a feast.

    Then we sat down for a feast.

    It won’t surprise you that when we got back to our apartment, we took a 2 hour nap, drank water for dinner, and did not leave again for the rest of the evening. We’ll blame it on Alessandro. The one holding the bottle of Lambrusco. Our driver, John (his name was much longer, but we…

  • Modern Antiquity

    Modern Antiquity

    In just two hours we arrive by train to Bologna. We splurge for first class on the regionale train from Venice Mestre station, just a few euros more. The seats have more cushion. From the Bologna Centrale station, we drag our roller bags for half a mile to our little apartment – bump, bump, bump,…

  • What it’s like.

    What it’s like.

    We cross our little bridge because it’s 10am and we’re hungry. We’ve slipped easily into the pattern of life here. 8am, the church bells ring and we’re roused from sleep; we crawl out of bed and light the stove for coffee; time to check e-mail and browse the news, both personal and political; we shower,…

  • Murano, Burano, and Feline Nobility

    Murano, Burano, and Feline Nobility

    In less than an hour on the Vaporetto, we took a day trip from Venice to the islands of Murano and Burano. Murano is famous for artisan glass. The story goes that after their molten furnaces ignited too many fires, glass makers were required by the Doge to move from Venice to this little island. Isolation…

  • Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Square

    Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Square

    We stand in St Mark’s square and stare wide-eyed at the cathedral, built more than a thousand years ago – we are stunned by its beauty and scale. The square is full of people and pigeons. String quartets play on four stages around the square; a couple grasps hands and begins to waltz. Vendors of T-shirts, magnets, and masks stand…

  • Redefining Normal

    Redefining Normal

  • La Biennale – ILLUMINations

    La Biennale – ILLUMINations

    We may have missed La Biennale if our neighbor hadn’t told us about it. (Thanks Christen!) It’s a contemporary art exhibition that takes place every two years – odd years – in Venice. This is the 54th annual exhibition. More than 34 countries exhibit sculpture, performing art, painting, modern media, music, dance, theater and, of course,…