Category: Italy
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Levanto and The Oasi Hotel
Without Tim’s advice, we would not have stayed in Levanto. We would have stayed in Monterosso or another one of the villages in the Cinque Terre. Though the cities are lovely, they’re busy, the streets are narrow, and it’s a challenge to avoid ‘tourist food’. But Levanto, Levanto. It’s the kind of town where children…
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The Via dell’Amore and a Wardrobe Malfunction
No, there’ll be no nudity here. I know how you think. We’ll take it easy today, we decide, no need for hiking clothes or shoes. Let’s take the train to Riomaggiore, the last town to the south in the Cinque Terre, walk a bit in each town, then take the train to the next. Cinque…
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The Harvest, Stomping Grapes, and Eating Lunch
How lucky to be here on the day that the grapes were ready for harvest. We set out to the vineyard with a little instruction, shears, and red plastic crates. We worked in pairs. Tim said that this vintage will be named ORwegion; grapes harvested by a couple from Oregon and five ladies from Norway.…
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Royal Turin and the National Cinema Museum
We didn’t give Turin her due by visiting for one day. Turin is called ‘the Royal City’ for good reason; it’s full of palaces constructed during the reign of the House of Savoy. We decided to see the National Cinema Museum in the Mole Antonelliana, a stunning structure and unforgettable landmark of Turin. The spire…
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The Wines of Asti
I don’t think you can visit Asti and not speak of wine. It’s central to some of the most famous wine regions in the world. I imagine you’ve heard of Asti Spumante – the most famous sparkling wine of Italy – made from Moscato grapes grown near Asti. But did you know that the towns…
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Villa on a Hilltop
We’re at the farmer’s market in the medieval town of Asti. Tim and Rina, the owners of Villa Sampaguita, said we should try the local Roero peaches; “Buy them from the brothers who have a stand at the end of the square.” To one of the brothers I say,“Vorrei del Roero pesci, per favore.” He…
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Palio di Asti
Lords, ladies, knights, and squires – 2,500 in all, descend on the town of Asti each year. They gather for a horse race, a bareback horserace. Commoners stand outside the gates to gaze at the glorious entry. An artist composes a scene in chalk to evoke a response from the noblemen. Twenty-one horses carry riders…
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Driving in Italy and Sampling Cheese
With some apprehension, we turn the iginition key and drive out of Bologna. It turns out that italian drivers are flesh and blood – just reckless. And you know what? It’s fun to drive here, intense, but fun. Kilometers, silly! We arrive safe and sound in Bra, Italy. We’re here for the Slow Food cheese…
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Last day in Bologna
We rent a car tomorrow and drive to Asti. We’ve neglected the sights here, distracted by food. On our last day, we plan to amend this. Our alarm sounds at 6am. After quick showers and coffee, we emerge on the street. The traffic is quiet, pedestrians few. We walk along the Via Saragozza to the edge…
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Whip, Knead, Roll, Cut, Fill, Shape, Dry
Except for the mandatory bright yellow cap, the class was perfect. Instructors at La Vecchia Scuola teach novices and professional students alike how to make traditional Bolognese pasta. The recipe is simple: for every 100 grams of ’00’ flour (or cake flour in the US), one egg, then whip, knead, roll, cut, fill, shape, and…